Monday, May 20, 2019

Urbanisation has changed the face of Mumbai

After living in this busy metropolis, this island of islands for about 17 years Ive realised one thing your senses are automatically heightened. Whether its your eyes that are constantly nipping in the fast railway yardd traffic or your ears that are forced to hear a cacophony of trains, vendors and honking cars. Your spill the beans and taste buds that have grown accustomed to Mumbais spicy, flavoursome cuisine. And of course, weve all had the chance to travel in a packed local train, scared that wed get pick-pocketed, its like were innate(p) with a heightened sense of touch also.But I perceive Mumbai to be a city of timbers. By this, I dont imply that ours is a city full of stench and smog, no its untold more than that Like each home has a distinct smell of its own, Mumbai has these particular aromas and scents that define the city and give it character. The moment you step into Mumbai, your impression about the city could vary, depending on whether youre an optimist or a pessimist. A pessimist would complain about the foul odour that comes from the slums, (You should know that Mumbai is home to one of the largest slums in Asia Dharavi, so thats a lot of stink , the amount of vehicular pollution and smoke from cigarettes, the malodour of rich sewage etc. An optimist, on the other hand would enjoy the sterile, sanitised smell of malls, hotels which are draw in Mumbai. Or you could be a realist like me and believe the city has a dual indistinguishability with motley collection of fragrances and odours. But thats a discussion for later. Urbanisation has changed the face of Mumbai entirely superannuated little bungalows with terracotta tiled roofs are replaced with high rises made of chrome and glass. Niwas-es and Sadans are pulled down to make direction for Towers and Heights. However there still are some remaining gardens and patches of green like the hang Gardens, Jijamata Udyan, the Sanjay Gandhi National Park to name a few. Mumbaikars still v isit these parks to get a puff of nature. And how can I forget the numerous Chaafa or champa trees with their sweet smelling flowers Ironically this fast pace of industrialisation and development hasnt improved the condition of public toilets in the city. Most Mumbaikars still take a hop at the stink that comes from our citys shauchalayas.The part of Mumbai that I enjoy the most is the sea. As a child, Id know that we were momentary by some Chowpatty or beach by the scrunch up saltiness in the air. Mumbais fish markets smell of the salty sea too its the smell of freshly caught fish. Most times these markets give off the odour of rotting fish an odour I still find repulsive. And then there is the floating smell of sukka bombil or Bombay duck dried in the sun near the coast Another way of knowing that youre near a crowd beach is the inescapable smell of chaat.The aroma of herbs, garam masala, the tang of squeezed lemons in a plate of bhelpuri or sev puri are enough to set the juices going in your mouth Youd also smell vadapavs being genius and pav bhaaji being prepared taka-tak two dishes that originated in Mumbai. And then there is the smell of piping hot great chai, (The term cutting chai is said to have originated in Mumbai too ) sold at tea stable at every nukkad of Mumbai. Every meal in India usually ends with paan. Another common feature on the streets and many walls of Mumbai are paan stains which have their own disagreeable stink.Sometimes I can tell which part of Mumbai Im in only by the distinctive redolence of that part. I know my train is passing through Andheri when I get a whiff of baked biscuits because the Parle G factory is very final stage to Andheri station. I know that my taxi has taken a turn at Kings whirligig because of the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans and the local cafes serving original south-Indian filter coffee. For that matter I still associate the aroma of freshly baked bread, cakes and cookies from the string of bakeries in my very own Orlem.Travelling in local trains has become a part of the daily routine of a large number of Mumbaikars. much than often these trains are overcrowded, filled with more passengers than can fit in. Now its not the sea of bodies that I have an issue with, its the smell of human sweat thats the problem At such times I dream of Mumbai during the monsoon. There is nothing more beautiful, more gratifying than rains in the city It gives us Mumbaikars relief from the summer heat, the air smells fresh and clean. The smell of wet mud well(p) after a shower is almost magical. Yes, such earthy fragrances are a part of Mumbai too

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